Belhaven NC to Hampton VA

Our passage from Dowry Creek Marina to the Alligator River Marina located just south of the Albemarle Sound was without incident. The Pungo River was relatively calm following the high winds of previous days and the canal leading to the Alligator River was smooth and straight. Although there were several other Loopers at the marina we were traveling alone; no one else wanted to leave at 6:30 am. Our main concern for this day was the following day's weather, we would be crossing a fairly large body of water and the forecast was for 15 mph winds out of the northwest, not ideal but doable. We generally don't do doable (a condition between good and not-good), but with no better conditions in the foreseeable future, we had little choice. After exiting the canal we had several miles of the Alligator River to traverse and a swing bridge to pass through. As we bee-bopped along at 8 mph several boats passed us by, so as we approached the bridge Overtime was the last in a string stretching out about a mile. I was hoping the bridge operator would hold them until I caught up then let us all through, but when I saw he was opening it up I was sure we would be in for a wait; boy was I surprised that he keep all those cars waiting for a total time close to 15 minutes. We arrived at Alligator River Marina at 1:30 pm. This is a nice overnight stop but there's nothing here except a Shell gas station/convenience store, in fact, the dock master is the store clerk. They do have separate restroom facilities for boaters and there is a fry-cook in the store. Around 7:00 pm our friends aboard Marie Sofie pulled into the marina after a 100 mile 8 mph day, they had come all the way from Oriental, NC in hopes of catching up with us; we sure were glad to see them. They had some personal business to attend to so we had not seen them in about three weeks, not since Charleston, SC. Kim and I had planned to cross the Albemarle Sound alone, leaving about 6:30 am, but with our buddies back in the picture we conceded to their 6:00 am departure. The wind was coming from the northeast rather than the predicted northwest which meant we were getting hit on the bow rather than the side with those slow rolling waves. We had a few crash over the bow, even splashing the windshield, but it's much more comfortable than taking them on the side. You might ask how two and three foot waves can crash over a five foot high bow, well it's like this... as you go over a wave the bow goes down and if the next wave is big enough it hits the front of the boat (Overtime has a barrel shaped bow) and splashes on over the bow sometimes all the way up to the windshield. Anyway, after about 30 or 45 minutes the wind died down, the waves settled down and we had a very pleasant crossing to the North River and even up to the canal at the top of the river. When planning this crossing Kim and I had thought about going only as far as Coinjock Marina, but since we left so early and the weather was so good and it was only 10:30 and Maurice and Renee like to keep moving, we set our sights on the Atlantic Yacht Basin in the Chesapeake area, another 40 miles away. We had a couple of bridges to contend with, the first being the longest wait. It opens every half-hour and even though Overtime was only about 5 minutes behind Marie Sofie we got held up. So, over the next 25 minutes, I had to keep Overtime off both banks, away from other boats which were accumulating and a 60-foot log (utility pole?) floating along with us. Of the nine boats that stacked up waiting on the bridge in this narrow canal, one was a tug pushing an empty barge. The bridge finally opened and the faster boats maneuvered into the lead thereby leaving poor little Overtime with a barge on her ass. That guy was able to stay right on her tail, about 60 yards back, for the next hour. Worked out well for us though, the next bridge delayed the opening by a few minutes to make timing good for the tug which was still on Overtime's ass. All the faster boats from the previous bridge were there waiting as well. With an easy passage through this bridge, the subsequent disappearance of the tug and good clean living we reached the Atlantic Yacht Basin Marina around 3:30 pm to conclude a 70-mile day.
We had a short hop to Hampton, Virginia the next day so we didn't leave until 10:00 am, this departure had to be timed with the hourly opening of the “Great Bridge” bridge followed immediately by the “Great Bridge” lock, even the community is named the “Great Bridge.” We had about 10 or 11 boats traverse the bridge opening and pull into the lock located just a few hundred yards away. It was pretty routine for us at this point in our trip and we proceeded along the waterway slowly following behind the others as usual. However, the train bridges which are usually left in the raised position were each down in succession for train traffic as we made our way thereby reminding me of the turtle and the hare story each time Overtime caught up to the go-fast boats.
We were soon into the Norfolk area with the Naval ships, we saw at least five aircraft carriers and numerous other warships lining our way as we slowly crossed the James River and entered the Hampton River to find our next home, the Hampton Public Pier.

Two incidents that happened this past week:
1) There is a lady, not sure of her age, who was doing the loop solo, meaning no companion aboard... no husband, boyfriend, lovers, ex-lover, nada. She had been traveling with other boaters and they were all tied to the dock at the Atlantic Yacht Basin about two days following our stint at that marina. Transient boats do not pull into slips at this marina, rather they pull alongside a long dock located along the canal's bank. On this particular night, rain was in the forecast so this lady spent the night on a friends boat because hers has a leak above her bed. Around 1:00 am a barge got loose from the tug and crashed into her boat, thank goodness she wasn't aboard. The boat didn't sink but was a total loss.
2) A couple aboard Carter's Cove lost their boat due to fire, burned all the way to the water line. We had traveled with them for a few days back on the Tombigbee Waterway.

Kim’s Korner:
Hampton – what a history lesson this area brings! Let’s start with Jamestown – or Fort James as it was first named. Jamestown was the first capital of Virginia. There really isn’t much to look at now but… they are able to make you imagine… a two-acre triangular fort enclosed by a mere wooden fence where 300 people settled. Indians which at first were friendly but quickly turned to a foe. Can you imagine 300 people living on two acres and being afraid for your life to leave those two acres? The first winter brought disease and famine and 80% perished – only 60 survived. Cannibalism was not unheard of – not murder – but severe hunger brought dire results… Can you imagine living in such dire circumstances while answering to a country that was an ocean away?
Next was Williamsburg, which eventually became the capital of Virginia for a while. Colonial Williamsburg is a combination of the original and the restoration of the original. Historians dressed in colonial costumes line the streets and give narratives explaining life during colonial times. Many African Americans were enslaved during this time. We toured the Governer’s Palace, the Capitol and engaged in a courtroom re-enactment. It was very interesting and very well done. This was a town that answered to the country of England but… the town was restless as many wanted to declare independence from England and become their own nation.
The next day was a visit to the Yorktown National Battlefield. So… The Declaration of Independence was signed in Philadelphia on July 4, 1776. War then took place between America and England. The French took our (Americans) side and the last big battle was fought at Yorktown in 1781. England surrendered – which means they asked for surrender negotiations – which took place at the Moore house in Yorktown. The British did surrender to the Americans and French at Yorktown but the war was not final until the Treaty of Paris was signed two years later in 1783. Really interesting… and not what I remember from my history classes at all… but I thought history was the most boring subject during my adolescent years so what do I know. We took a driving tour of the battlefield and let me just say that the fields and forest we drove through were exceptionally beautiful! It is springtime and green abounded and it was one of the most beautiful drives we’ve ever taken.
History class dismissed and reality reigns! We now have several days of weather to endure before we leave Hampton. Laundry, provisioning and planning the next leg of our trip will consume these next few days. Think about how much planning goes into a week long vacation – where to stay, what to see, where to eat… All these questions come to mind as we look at the next step in our journey. It can get very overwhelming as we add weather and large bodies of water to these variables which may change a well-made plan. I’m not complaining, just saying that it can be overwhelming at times. This has been an amazing journey! I have been disappointed at times in not being able to do all I would like but…. I know that I can’t begin to see everything on this adventure that I would like and… I can honestly say that everything we have experienced has been wonderful and I feel very lucky to be able to experience the paths we have been able to take.
Hampton Area Pictures!